My 2024 Axis-Y Skincare Ranking: From Miss to Must-Have!

Hey friends! It’s finally time for a deep dive into one of my favorite K-Beauty brands: Axis-Y. This is our last major K-Beauty brand review of 2024 before we move into the “best of” content for the year. I'm so excited for those upcoming reviews, but I really wanted to prioritize Axis-Y because I’ve seen some amazing changes in their products recently. I last reviewed them back in 2021 or 2022, and while I liked them then, they were using a lot of essential oils. While essential oils aren't inherently bad, I’m sensitive to some, and I know many of you are too. I really loved their Biome line back then, but Manyo has since become my go-to for that type of product. What’s truly exciting me about Axis-Y lately are their newer releases. They’ve been absolutely nailing it! But enough gushing, let’s get to the ranking! Just a reminder, my skin is dry, acne-prone, and a bit sensitive. For full transparency, Axis-Y doesn't know I exist. I purchased most of these products myself, with a few kindly provided by K-Beauty retailers. Everything here is my honest opinion, so feel free to share your own experiences in the comments!

We'll start from the bottom and work our way up.

This one might be predictable, but my least favorite Axis-Y product is the Complete No-Stress Physical Sunscreen. I know this sunscreen generated some buzz for them early on, being a rare mineral sunscreen from a K-Beauty brand. But there are a few things I need to address. First, is it truly mineral with butyloctyl salicylate listed in the ingredients? This highlights the issue we have in the US, categorizing sunscreens as simply "mineral" or "chemical" without acknowledging the wide range of chemical filters and their varying effects on skin. We know some are more likely to cause reactions, but the labeling doesn't reflect that nuance. The inclusion of butyloctyl salicylate, a chemical filter, blurs the lines of what constitutes a purely mineral sunscreen.

Secondly, and more importantly for me, applying this sunscreen takes forever! I’m not kidding, it takes me at least eight times longer to apply this than a chemical sunscreen. I’ve actually timed it. Four minutes of buffing and blending just to minimize the white cast, and even then, being fair-skinned myself, there's still a noticeable whiteness. I can only imagine how pronounced it would look on deeper skin tones. While makeup can help mitigate the white cast, it’s not a practical solution for everyone, especially on days when a no-makeup look is desired. This persistent white cast is a major drawback of many mineral sunscreens, a direct result of the inherent white color of the mineral filters themselves, namely zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

I still use mineral sunscreens occasionally because research suggests zinc oxide can be beneficial for acne, which I struggle with. It's like a two-for-one deal – sun protection and potential acne treatment – but at the cost of a painfully slow and laborious application process. This is version three of the sunscreen, and while Axis-Y claims it's the best iteration yet, the inherent challenges of working with mineral filters, particularly in achieving a cosmetically elegant finish, remain.

Moving up the list, we have the New Skin Resolution Gel Mask. This one is pleasant to use, with a nice cooling gel texture and a natural, earthy fragrance that I genuinely enjoy. It also doesn't contain the essential oils that can irritate my skin. So, the sensory experience is quite nice, but the results are, unfortunately, underwhelming.

Looking at the ingredients list, the lack of impactful results makes sense. The mask contains 2% niacinamide, which is a gentle concentration, great for leave-on products where it can provide sustained benefits over time, but less effective in a wash-off mask like this. The humectants present in the formula could also be easily incorporated into a leave-on product for longer-lasting hydration. It’s unlikely to cause harm, and some people find they can tolerate essential oils in wash-off products even if they react to them in leave-on formulas. Overall, it's a harmless product, good for a relaxing pampering session, but it doesn't deliver the noticeable skin improvements I'd hope for, which is understandable given its wash-off format.

This next one might be a bit controversial: the Dark Spot Correcting Glow Cream. It's a newer release, and I know some people are enjoying it, but for me, it comes down to skin type and texture preference. This product feels significantly more like a serum than a cream, which heavily impacts my perception of it. Ranking products is always tricky because I wonder if it's entirely fair. Perhaps I'd rank this higher if I had oily or combination skin, where a lighter texture would be more desirable. But ultimately, I have to be honest about my personal experience as someone with dry skin. If I raved about this cream, it wouldn't be genuine. So, if you have dry skin like me, I don't think you'll find this cream moisturizing enough. The thin, serum-like consistency simply doesn't provide the level of hydration my dry skin craves.

I do, however, prefer the Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum. The pump packaging is much better suited to its runny texture, making dispensing and application much more convenient and hygienic than the cream’s jar packaging. Honestly, I think it's a solid niacinamide serum. It contains 5% niacinamide and sea buckthorn extract, one of my favorite ingredients for its antioxidant and nourishing properties. Being a leave-on product, these ingredients have ample time to work their magic on the skin.

But I’ve mentioned this before, and it applies to the cream as well: we need to discuss what Axis-Y means by "dark spot." Most K-Beauty brands you see marketed internationally, like Purito, COSRX, and Axis-Y, cater to a younger demographic, generally 18-29. So, "dark spot" in this context likely refers to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) or post-acne marks, not age spots or sunspots. While 5% niacinamide can be helpful in fading PIH, it's generally less effective on age spots or sunspots, which might explain some of the negative reviews from users with different types of hyperpigmentation. I’ve considered that Axis-Y should perhaps rename this product for greater clarity, but I've also considered the cultural context. The meaning might be clearer to consumers in Korea. I don't want to fault a company for translational nuances. Ultimately, it's a good, affordable niacinamide serum, and the price is hard to beat. It’s lower on my list due to the naming ambiguity, but I would definitely consider repurchasing it.

Now we’re getting into the products I truly love and have repurchased! Number five is the Mugwort Pore Clarifying Wash-Off Pack. This is my second purchase of this mask, which is rare for me, especially with clay masks, as I tend to experiment and try new products frequently. But this one is special. It has another lovely earthy, natural scent that my skin seems to enjoy, perhaps because it's a wash-off product and the fragrance doesn't linger. It also contains physical exfoliants, which I find beneficial for my skin. I know physical exfoliation has gotten a bad rap in some skincare circles, but I don't think that's entirely fair. I don't tolerate strong chemical exfoliation well, but gentle physical exfoliation, like that provided by the fine particles in this mask, works wonders for me. This mask contains mugwort, known for its soothing properties, kaolin clay to absorb excess oil, and adzuki bean powder for gentle exfoliation. While generally better suited for oily skin, I find it’s not overly drying, even on my dry skin. I enjoy the entire experience, from application to removal, and my skin consistently reacts well to it. The gentle exfoliation leaves my skin feeling smoother and more refined without any irritation.

Ranking these next few is tough because they’re all favorites. At number four, we have the Panthenol 10 Skin Smoothing Shield Cream. This is a high ranking! Panthenol is an unsung hero in the skincare world. It's well-researched and fantastic for calming and hydrating the skin, yet it doesn't get the same level of attention as other hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid. This cream boasts a generous 10% panthenol concentration. It’s surprisingly lightweight despite feeling very hydrating, absorbing quickly into the skin without leaving a greasy or sticky residue. I’m docking points only because, with my dry skin, I prefer to use panthenol in my serum step for deeper hydration. However, if you have oily or combination skin and want a lightweight yet effectively hydrating cream, this could be your holy grail.

This cream also exemplifies Axis-Y’s new direction, formulating without added fragrance and essential oils, and incorporating beneficial ingredients like madecassoside (a derivative of centella asiatica) and ceramide NP to support the skin barrier. It seems like some skincare brands eventually realize that sticking to tried-and-true calming and soothing ingredients, while avoiding potential irritants, leads to better results for a wider range of people. One more thing: this is primarily a summer moisturizer for me, but it also works great as the first step in a "retinoid sandwich" technique, where you apply a layer of moisturizer before and after your retinoid to buffer its potential irritation. I usually use Stratia Liquid Gold for this purpose, but the Panthenol 10 cream is a good alternative. It’ll take me a while to finish this large tub, which is why it's not higher on my list, but it’s still a fantastic product.

Number three is a surprise: the PHA Resurfacing Glow Peel. I typically avoid anything labeled a "peel" because my skin is quite sensitive. But this peel is different. It contains 10% PHA (polyhydroxy acid), a larger molecule than AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) like glycolic acid, making it much gentler on the skin. Studies show gluconolactone, a common PHA, is a hydrating exfoliant, which is quite unique. It also contains papaya enzymes, providing additional gentle enzymatic exfoliation alongside the PHA's superficial action. This combination makes it suitable for sensitive skin types. Those with more resilient skin might find it less potent compared to something like glycolic acid, which penetrates deeper into the skin. This highlights the importance of understanding your skin's specific needs and choosing products accordingly. As someone generally scared of peels, I’m thrilled that this one works beautifully for me. It is unusual to see a wash-off PHA product, as most are formulated as leave-on treatments. You apply a thick layer of this peel and remove it after 10 minutes. This one genuinely surprised me with its gentle yet effective exfoliation and earned its spot in my top three.

Okay, I bet many of you could guess what’s next. This product is right up my alley: the Cera-Heart My Type Duo Cream. I absolutely adore this! It’s similar in concept to the Thank You Farmer Rice Gel and Cream, but this one combines the gel and cream in one innovative package. While I’m not a fan of using gels on their own, as they often don't provide enough hydration for my dry skin, I love the flexibility of customizing the gel-to-cream ratio with this duo. Axis-Y describes the cream side as the "You Cream," a rich, ceramide-based formula, and the gel side as the "T-Zone Cream Gel," a lighter, heartleaf-based formula designed for oilier areas like the T-zone. I’ve heard the T-Zone cream is also available as a standalone product, but I haven’t seen the You Cream sold separately. Someone suggested it might be similar to the Panthenol 10 cream, but the ingredients and texture are quite different. The cream in this duo is a true, thick, heavy cream, comparable in richness to the Biossance Omega Repair Cream or the Pacifica Vegan Collagen Recovery Cream. It complements the lighter gel perfectly. This product is brilliant because it caters to a wide range of skin types, from combination skin (by providing both a gel and cream option) to dry or oily skin (by allowing you to control the mixture). It’s also incredibly helpful for those whose moisturizing needs change seasonally. I think this product solves the problem of moisturizers claiming to be for all skin types when they really aren't. You’ll likely gravitate towards gels if you have oily skin and creams if you have dry skin. This duo offers unparalleled flexibility, and Axis-Y absolutely nailed it.

And finally, my top two! I simply couldn’t decide which I love more. Both were released in 2024, further demonstrating Axis-Y’s impressive upward trajectory in product development. First, the Vegan Collagen Eye Serum. This product is pure innovation! It combines hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and peptides in a low-irritant formula, perfect for the delicate skin around the eyes. The design is ingenious: a pump dispenses the product through a cooling metal rollerball. This combination is essential for efficient and targeted application. It’s so delightful to use, and the hydration is so intense that you'll likely see quick results in terms of plumpness and reduced appearance of fine lines. Eye cream has a bad reputation, with some claiming it’s a scam. While some people with oily skin might not need a separate eye cream, if you have dry skin or want to specifically address concerns like fine lines or dryness around the eyes, an eye serum designed for that purpose can be incredibly beneficial. And the affordability of this serum is unbelievable! I think I paid around $14, and it lasted me two to three months, despite the small size (which is appropriate for the under-eye area). It's hard to call that a scam.

And tied for first place, perhaps predictably, is the Dark Spot Correcting Glow Toner. As a self-proclaimed mist toner lover, I had to include this. It’s only been out for a few months, but I knew I needed to update my Axis-Y review as soon as I tried it. It's the best mist toner I've ever used, at least in the realm of K-Beauty. It's a dual-layer formula, so you have to shake it before each use. This gives it a subtle, healthy glow, but it's not overly oily or greasy like some dual-phase toners can be. The spray mechanism is excellent, delivering a consistent, fine mist even towards the end of the bottle. The ingredients are fantastic: 5% niacinamide, glutathione (a powerful antioxidant), peptides, and various humectants for deep hydration. It’s fragrance-free and an absolute joy to use. The mist is fine and milky, providing a refreshing burst of hydration whenever you need it. I’ve been asked if I’ve had success putting other milky toners into spray bottles, and generally, the answer is no. They tend to clog the sprayer and don't mist evenly. But this mist is perfect. Can you see why I couldn't choose just one top favorite? The best eye serum and the best mist toner – both from Axis-Y!

So there you have it, my Axis-Y ranking for 2024! Let me know your thoughts in the comments below. Share your experiences with this brand or any others you enjoy. I’d love to hear your recommendations!